Noisy or Dead Fan? Testing and Fixing Oven Fan Motors

⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: IMPORTANT

Electricity can be lethal. Before attempting any repair, ensure the appliance is fully isolated from the mains power. If you are not confident using a multimeter or working with high-voltage components, consult a qualified engineer. Never work on a "live" circuit.

Is your oven screaming like a jet engine or silent as a grave? A faulty fan motor is more than just a nuisance; it prevents heat from circulating, leading to unevenly cooked food. In this post, we’ll look at how to test the motor windings and what to do when the mechanical parts seize up.

The Two Types of Failure

1. The Electrical Failure (The Windings):

   • The Test: Access the motor from the rear and disconnect the wires. Set your multimeter to Ohms.

   • The Goal: You should see a resistance reading (usually between 80Ω and 150Ω depending on the model).

   • The Fault: If you see "OL", the copper windings inside have snapped. The motor is electrically "dead."

2. The Mechanical Failure (The Bearings/Rotor):

   • The Symptom: The motor has a good Ohm reading, but it’s making a grinding noise or won't turn. This means the bearings have failed or the rotor is warped.

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The "Pro" Workaround: Stuck Bolts

The most common hurdle in fan repair is a seized retaining nut on the fan blade inside the oven. Because of the constant heat and grease, these nuts can become "welded" on.

• The Traditional Fix: Use a socket wrench and some WD40 (let it soak!).

• The "Hacker" Fix: If the nut won't budge and the motor is already dead, pros often use a hacksaw or grinder to cut the rotor shaft from the rear.

• The "Parts" Fix: If only your windings are burnt but your rotor is fine, you can actually swap just the winding coil and keep your original rotor and blades in place.

Buy cooker and oven spares from Ebay UK here 

Buy a good Multimeter here on Ebay UK 

Read the Electric cooker repair book here on Amazon UK 

locate fan and you may need to pull up the connector or remove completely 

Buy Multimeter here 

connect the multimeter and select ohms continuity reading 

here i remove the fan and element cover to access the fan blades

I tried a spanner and socket but could not get the retaining bolt to budge 

even tried wd40 and leverage but it was not budging , usually i would cut the nut off with a 

grinder but this is a good unit so did not want to damage it 

instead you could dismantle from the rear and either cut rotor in half or 

just replace the winding if that is all the is faulty .

undoing screws and below the rear rotor mount and bearing assembly 

you can see rotor here now and winding will pull free 

here is the fan motor winding you could just unplug the connectors

and replace this unit on its own 

Above is rotor assembly 

and below i start the process of refitting the winding

and the motor housing 

tightening up the rear rotor mount and bearing

and then below the motor housing retaining screws

Noise from from see video below